Sewer Line Repair & Replacement

The line from your house to the city main — lined, burst, spot-repaired, or
replaced. We camera it and show you the footage before anyone quotes a
number. Broward & Palm Beach County, 24/7.

  • Same-Day Service Available

  • Upfront, Honest Pricing

  • 24/7 Emergency Repairs

  • You See the Footage First
  • Permits Pulled by Us

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SERVING SOUTH FLORIDA

Erica’s Plumbing repairs, lines, and replaces sewer lines across Broward and Palm Beach County — the lateral that runs from your house out to the city main. Licensed Florida plumbing contractor #CFC1427956, woman-owned since 2009, available 24/7. We camera the line and show you the footage before anyone quotes you a number. Call 561-260-5763.

First, a distinction that matters more than it sounds like it should.

Your house has two different sets of buried pipe, and people use “sewer line” for both. The drain lines under your slab run from your fixtures to the edge of the building — in most older South Florida homes those are cast iron, and they’re a different conversation. The sewer lateral picks up where those leave off and carries everything out under your yard, usually under a driveway or a right-of-way, to the city main.

Different pipe, different age, sometimes different material, definitely different repair. This page is about the lateral. If a contractor quotes you a “sewer replacement” without telling you which one they mean, that’s your first question.

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Line · Burst · Replace · Spot Repair

Four Ways to Fix a Lateral

Anyone can tell you they do trenchless. The useful thing is knowing when trenchless is the wrong answer.

CIPP Lining

A resin-saturated liner is pulled or inverted into the existing pipe and cured in place, forming a new pipe inside the old one. No trench. Your driveway, your pavers, and your ficus stay where they are.

Right when: the line is structurally intact but corroded, cracked, or root-infiltrated, and the grade is correct.

Wrong when: the pipe is collapsed, badly offset, or has a belly. A liner conforms to the host pipe — it does not correct alignment. See below.

Pipe Bursting

A bursting head is pulled through the old pipe, fracturing it outward while dragging new HDPE in behind. Two access pits instead of a full trench. You get a brand-new pipe, and you can upsize the diameter.

Right when: the pipe is too far gone to line, but the path is workable and the grade is right.

Wrong when: there’s a belly, or the line runs too close to other utilities to fracture safely. Bursting follows the existing path — it doesn’t re-grade it either.

Spot Repair

Open a small area, cut out the bad section, put in new pipe, close it up. Unglamorous, and frequently the right answer — a lot of “you need a full replacement” quotes are really one bad joint.

Right when: the damage is localized and the rest of the line cameras clean. A root intrusion at one joint, a crushed section where somebody drove a truck over it.

Wrong when: the camera shows the same deterioration up and down the whole run. Then you’re just buying the first of many.

Open-Cut Replacement

Dig the line, take it out, lay new pipe at proper slope, backfill, restore. The oldest method, the most disruptive, and — for one specific problem — the only one that actually works.

Right when: the line has a belly or a grade problem, the alignment needs to change, or the pipe is collapsed to the point that nothing can be pulled through it.

Wrong when: a trenchless method would genuinely work and somebody’s selling you a trench because it’s what they own.

Five Things Worth Knowing First

Sewer laterals are the most expensive thing most homeowners will ever have quoted sight-unseen. Here’s what to know before somebody hands you a number.

1. Nothing Trenchless Fixes a Belly

This is the one that costs us the easy sale, and it’s the most important thing on this page.

A belly is a sag — a low spot where the pipe has settled out of its slope. South Florida is sand and fill over a high water table, and fill settles. When a section of your lateral drops, water stops flowing through it and starts standing in it. Solids drop out in the puddle. That’s your recurring backup, and it will happen forever, because gravity isn’t negotiating.

Now: a liner conforms to the pipe it’s installed in. Run CIPP through a bellied line and you get a beautiful, brand-new, fully warranted lined belly. Same sag. Same standing water. Same backups. Pipe bursting doesn’t save you either — the bursting head follows the existing path, so the new HDPE lands in the same low spot the old pipe was in.

The only thing that fixes a belly is digging it up and re-laying the pipe at proper slope. That’s it. That’s the list.

So when a company quotes you trenchless over the phone, or before they’ve camera’d the line, they are guessing — and if you have a belly, they’re about to sell you an expensive repair that doesn’t repair anything. Ask them directly: did you see a belly, and if so, how does lining fix it? Watch what happens.

We camera first and we’ll tell you when trenchless is wrong, even though trenchless is the job we’d rather sell.

2. You Probably Own More of It Than You Think

The most common surprise on a sewer job is finding out where your responsibility ends.

In most South Florida municipalities the property owner owns the lateral from the building all the way to the connection at the city main — and that frequently includes the portion running under the sidewalk, the swale, and the street itself. The city maintains the main. You maintain everything that gets to it.

That means a failure fifteen feet out under the pavement can still be yours, and it can require a right-of-way permit, traffic control, and pavement restoration on top of the plumbing.

This varies by city, and it’s worth knowing which one you’re in before you need to. Some jurisdictions take ownership at the property line or at the cleanout. Call your utility department and ask where their responsibility starts — it’s a two-minute phone call that can be worth thousands.

We’ll pull the right-of-way permit if the work needs one. But nobody should be finding this out for the first time with a backhoe already in the yard.

3. Your Homeowners Policy Probably Doesn’t Cover It

We’re plumbers, not insurance agents, so treat this as a prompt to go read your policy rather than as advice. But it comes up on every single sewer job, so here it is.

Standard homeowners policies generally exclude gradual deterioration — wear, corrosion, rust, root intrusion, settling. Which is to say: they exclude essentially every way a sewer lateral actually fails. A pipe that rotted out over fifty years didn’t have an “occurrence.” It got old.

Two things you can often add: service line coverage, an endorsement that covers buried utility lines on your property, and water backup coverage, which is separate and covers the damage inside when a line backs up. Both are typically inexpensive add-ons. Most people don’t have either and find out at the worst moment.

Go look at your declarations page. If you own a pre-1980 house in Broward or Palm Beach County, this is a worthwhile fifteen minutes. And whatever your agent tells you, get it in writing.

4. Roots Are a Symptom, Not the Disease

Ficus, banyan, melaleuca, and poinciana are aggressive, opportunistic, and everywhere in this region. But they do not break into a sound, sealed pipe. They can’t.

What roots do is find water. A joint that’s separated, a crack, a corroded section already weeping — in a Florida dry season, that’s the wettest thing in the soil, and roots go to it. Once a hair-thin root is through, it thickens, and now you have a mass in the line catching everything that goes by.

So the root ball is real and it needs to come out. But cutting roots without asking how they got in is the plumbing equivalent of mopping around a leak. They’ll be back, on roughly the same schedule, forever.

If a camera shows roots, the actual finding is the defect that let them in. That’s what determines whether you’re looking at a spot repair, a lining, or a replacement. Anybody who jets your roots annually and never mentions the joint is running a subscription, not a repair.

5. In a Condo or HOA, Find Out Whose It Is First

South Florida runs on associations, and sewer responsibility inside a community is governed by documents, not by intuition.

In most condo buildings, the line from your unit to the building stack is yours and the stack is the association’s — but that’s a generalization, and your declaration is the actual answer. In HOA communities with private streets, the association often owns the collection system out to wherever the city picks up, which means a lateral failure can be a board problem, an owner problem, or both, depending on where it is.

Many buildings also have a private lift station, which the property owner maintains — not the city. Boards are routinely surprised by this the first time one fails.

Read the docs before you authorize work. We’ll camera the line, locate the defect, mark exactly where it sits relative to the building, and give you footage and a written report — which is usually what the board or the management company needs before anyone can approve anything. We work with associations constantly.

Signs It’s the Lateral

A lateral problem announces itself differently than a drain problem.

Your lowest fixtures back up first. Tub, shower, floor drain. Water finds the lowest opening it can. If your toilet is fine but the guest tub is filling, that’s not a tub problem.

Multiple fixtures at once, all over the house. A branch line affects a group. The lateral affects everything.

The toilet bubbles when the washer drains. The classic. Air displaced by a large volume of water has nowhere to go.

One patch of lawn is greener than the rest. Congratulations, your lateral is fertilizing it. That’s a leak, and roots already know.

A soft or sunken spot in the yard, or a sinkhole over the line. Soil washing into a broken pipe. Take this one seriously.

Sewage odor outside near the line. Not normal. A sound sewer is a sealed system.

Recurring backups every few months. Read this first — the cycle is the diagnosis.

Sewage in the house. Stop running water and call now. Emergency.

How It Works

1. We camera the line. Before anything else, and before any number gets quoted. We locate the defect, mark the depth and position on the ground, and identify the pipe material. You get the footage.

2. You see what we see. On screen, with us, while it’s happening. A belly, an offset joint, roots, scale, a crack, a collapse — you’ll know which one you have and roughly where it is.

3. You get options with real numbers. Lining, bursting, spot repair, or open-cut — with what each costs, what each fixes, and what each doesn’t. If trenchless won’t solve your problem we say so, even though it’s the job we’d rather sell.

4. We pull the permits. Sewer work is permitted through your city’s building department, and if the line runs into the right-of-way it needs a separate permit and restoration. That’s on us, and it’s in the quoted price.

5. We do the work and put it back. Backfill, compaction, and surface restoration. Warrantied. Financing available — most sewer laterals are not a checkbook repair, and we’d rather you fix it right than defer it.

If it already backed up into the house, we’re IICRC certified for restoration and licensed as a general contractor. The line repair, the cleanup, and the rebuild stay with one company.

Licensed: CFC1427956 · CAC1822846 · CGC1519396. Woman-owned since 2009.

Sewer Line FAQs

It’s the widest range in plumbing, and anyone who quotes it over the phone is guessing. A spot repair on one bad joint at shallow depth is a different universe from a full lateral replacement running under a driveway into a city right-of-way. The variables that actually move the number: length, depth, what’s on top of it, whether the work enters the right-of-way, whether the grade needs correcting, and which method the line can actually accept. That’s why we camera first and quote after. You’ll get options in writing with real numbers, and financing is available — most laterals aren’t a checkbook repair.
They’re different pipes and people use “sewer line” for both, which causes real confusion when quotes come in. The drain lines under your slab run from your fixtures to the edge of the building — in most older South Florida homes those are cast iron, and that’s its own project. The sewer lateral picks up from there and runs under your yard to the city main. Different age, sometimes different material, definitely different repair methods and access. If a contractor quotes you a “sewer replacement,” ask which pipe they mean before you compare it to anything.
No, and this is where a lot of money gets wasted. Trenchless is excellent when the pipe is structurally intact but corroded, cracked, or root-infiltrated, and the grade is correct. It’s the wrong answer when the line has a belly — a sag where it’s settled out of slope. A liner conforms to the pipe it’s installed in, so lining a bellied line gives you a lined belly with the same standing water and the same backups. Pipe bursting doesn’t fix it either, because the new pipe follows the old path. Only excavating and re-laying at proper slope corrects grade. If someone quotes trenchless without cameraing the line, ask them how lining fixes a belly.
Often, yes — and it surprises almost everyone. In most South Florida municipalities the property owner owns the lateral from the building all the way to the connection at the city main, frequently including the portion under the sidewalk, swale, and street. The city maintains the main; you maintain what gets to it. That means a failure out under the pavement can still be yours, plus a right-of-way permit, traffic control, and pavement restoration. It does vary by city — some take ownership at the property line or the cleanout. Call your utility department and ask where their responsibility begins. It’s a two-minute call that can be worth thousands.
Usually not, and we’re plumbers rather than insurance agents, so read your own policy. Standard homeowners policies generally exclude gradual deterioration — wear, corrosion, rust, root intrusion, settling — which is essentially every way a lateral actually fails. A pipe that rotted out over fifty years didn’t have an occurrence; it got old. There are two endorsements worth asking about: service line coverage, for buried utility lines on your property, and water backup coverage, which is separate and covers damage inside the home when a line backs up. Both are typically inexpensive. Most people don’t have either and find out at the worst possible moment.
A low spot where the pipe has settled out of its slope, so water stands in it instead of flowing through. South Florida is sand and fill over a high water table, and fill settles — so bellies are common here. Solids drop out in the standing water and build up, which is why a bellied line backs up on a schedule no matter how often it’s cleared. It matters enormously for repair, because a belly is a grade problem, not a pipe problem: lining and bursting both follow the existing path and preserve the sag. The only fix is excavating that section and re-laying it at proper slope.
Roots don’t break into a sound, sealed pipe — they find one that’s already leaking. A separated joint, a crack, a corroded section weeping into the soil is the wettest thing around in a Florida dry season, and ficus, banyan, and melaleuca are opportunistic about it. Once a hair-thin root is in, it thickens into a mass that catches everything. So yes, roots cause backups and they need to come out. But the real finding is the defect that let them in, and that’s what determines whether it’s a spot repair, a lining, or a replacement. Anyone jetting your roots annually without mentioning the joint is selling a subscription.
Read the pattern. One fixture slow and the rest fine is local — a trap or the branch behind it. If your lowest fixtures back up first, that’s the lateral, because water finds the lowest opening. If the toilet bubbles when the washing machine drains, that’s the lateral. If multiple fixtures across the whole house are affected at once, that’s the lateral. Outside signs count too: one suspiciously green patch of lawn, a soft or sunken spot over the line, or a sewage smell in the yard. A sound sewer is a sealed system — you shouldn’t be able to smell it.
It depends far more on access and permitting than on the plumbing. Lining or bursting a straightforward residential lateral is often a one-day job for the pipe itself. Open-cut takes longer, and if the work enters the right-of-way you’re adding permit time, possible traffic control, and pavement restoration — which can extend the calendar well beyond the days our crew is actually on site. We’ll give you a realistic schedule with the quote, including the parts that are the city’s clock rather than ours.
Yes, for essentially any repair or replacement of the lateral. Permits are issued through your city’s building department across Broward and Palm Beach County, and if the line runs into the public right-of-way that’s typically a separate permit with its own restoration requirements. We pull them, and they’re in the quoted price. Be very cautious of anyone offering to skip permits on a sewer job — this is buried infrastructure connecting to a public system, and unpermitted work here is a problem at resale, with your insurer, and potentially with the city.
The documents decide, not intuition. In most condo buildings the line from your unit to the building stack is yours and the stack belongs to the association — but that’s a generalization and your declaration is the actual answer. In HOA communities with private streets, the association often owns the collection system out to wherever the city takes over. Many properties also have a private lift station, which the owner maintains rather than the city — something boards are routinely surprised by. We camera, locate, mark the position relative to the building, and provide footage and a written report, which is usually what a board or management company needs before approving anything.
Depends entirely on what the camera shows, which is why we won’t answer it before we’ve looked. Repair the spot if the damage is localized and the rest of the run cameras clean — a lot of full-replacement quotes are really one bad joint. Line it if the pipe is structurally intact but deteriorated along its length and the grade is right. Burst or replace it if the pipe is collapsed, or if the material itself is finished and you’d just be buying the first of many spot repairs. Excavate and re-lay if there’s a belly. Five different answers, and the footage tells you which one is yours.

Get the Line Camera’d Before Anyone Quotes You

Licensed under CFC1427956. Woman-owned since 2009. You’ll see the footage, you’ll get options with real numbers, and if trenchless won’t fix your problem we’ll tell you — even though it’s the job we’d rather sell. Broward and Palm Beach County, 24/7.

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