Bathroom Plumbing Services

Erica’s Plumbing handles every part of your bathroom plumbing — showers and shower pans, tubs, vanity sinks, toilets, drains, valves, and everything behind the wall feeding them. We’re a licensed, woman-owned plumbing contractor (Florida #CFC1427956) working across Broward and Palm Beach County since 2009, available 24/7. Flat-rate pricing, quoted before we start. Call 561-260-5763.

Bathrooms are where plumbing hides. A kitchen leak shows up on the cabinet floor within a day. A bathroom leak goes into a wall cavity, under a mud bed, or through a slab, and you find out about it weeks later — from a smell, a soft spot, a stain on the ceiling downstairs, or a neighbor knocking on your door.

That’s why the money in a bathroom is almost never in the fixture. It’s in what’s behind and beneath it. Below is what we work on, the five things that actually cause the expensive calls, and how to tell whether your problem is the fixture or the plumbing before you spend anything.

Single fixtures, full bathrooms, and the parts nobody sees. Licensed plumbers, permitted where required, warrantied.

Shower pan replacement and repair, pan liners and modern bonded membrane systems, shower drains and weep holes, valve replacement, diverters, rain heads, body sprays, and full shower rebuilds. Pans are the single most expensive thing in a bathroom to get wrong — read the section below before you let anyone caulk yours.

Tub replacement, tub-to-shower conversions, freestanding and drop-in installs, tub drains and overflow assemblies, waste-and-overflow gaskets, and tub valve replacement. If you’ve got an original cast iron tub, don’t assume it has to go — see below. Removing one is a bigger job than most people expect.

Vanity and pedestal sink installs, undermount and vessel bowls, faucet repair and replacement, pop-up drain assemblies, P-traps, and angle stops. Double-vanity conversions mean a second drain and second set of supplies — very doable, and much cheaper roughed in during a remodel than retrofitted after.

Repair and replacement, running and phantom-flushing toilets, wax seals, fill and flush valves, flange repair and extenders, comfort-height and wall-hung units, and relocations. A toilet that rocks or leaks at the base is almost never a bad toilet — it’s the flange underneath it, and buying a new toilet won’t fix it.

Slow tub, shower, and sink drains, hair and soap-scum blockages, P-trap and tailpiece replacement, vent problems, and the under-slab drain lines all of it runs to. If more than one bathroom fixture is slow at the same time, the problem isn’t in the bathroom — it’s downstream, and that’s a drain line conversation.

Shower and tub valves, pressure-balancing and thermostatic anti-scald valves, angle stops that won’t turn, supply lines, and repiping failing polybutylene or galvanized in wet walls. Also grab-bar blocking, which is free to add while a wall is open and expensive to add after. Unglamorous. Where the actual failures live.

These are the five conversations we have most often in South Florida bathrooms. A couple of them will talk you out of spending money, which is the point.

A tiled shower isn’t waterproof. Tile and grout are porous — water gets through them by design. What actually keeps water out of your house is the pan liner underneath: a membrane sitting on a sloped bed, draining to weep holes at the base of the drain assembly. When that liner fails, or the weep holes clog with mortar and debris, water stops going down the drain and starts going into the mud bed, the wall framing, and the slab.

Then it sits. In South Florida humidity, inside a wall, with no airflow. You don’t get a puddle — you get a musty smell, a soft spot outside the shower, dark grout at the base, a stain on the ceiling below, or loose tile. By the time it’s visible it’s been going on for a while.

Here’s the part nobody wants to hear: a leaking pan cannot be fixed from the top. If someone offers to caulk it or seal the grout, they’re selling you six more months and a bigger repair. The liner is under the tile. Reaching it means the tile comes out. Anyone telling you otherwise is either guessing or hoping you don’t call back.

The reason we say this out loud: we’re licensed for plumbing and IICRC certified for water damage restoration, under one company. Most plumbers find the leak, fix the pipe, and hand you a mold problem and someone else’s phone number. We can do the plumbing repair and the drying, remediation, and rebuild without a handoff — which matters, because in this climate the mold clock starts fast.

If your toilet rocks, or weeps at the base, or you smell sewer gas near it, the toilet is almost certainly fine. The flange underneath it isn’t.

The flange should sit flush with or slightly above the finished floor so the wax seal compresses correctly. The classic failure: somebody tiled the bathroom floor and didn’t extend the flange. Now the flange is a half-inch low, the wax has to span a gap it wasn’t designed to span, and it fails — sometimes immediately, sometimes two years later. Rocking makes it worse every time you sit down. Broken flange ears from over-tightening do the same thing.

The fix is a flange repair or an extender ring and a proper reset. It is dramatically cheaper than a new toilet, and a new toilet on a bad flange will do the exact same thing. If a plumber quotes you a replacement without looking at the flange, ask why.

Plenty of older South Florida homes still have their original enameled cast iron tub, and the reflex is to tear it out. Slow down.

Those tubs are genuinely better than most of what replaces them — heavier, quieter, they hold heat, and the shell will outlive you. Usually what’s actually wrong is the finish: worn, stained, chipped. That’s a reglazing job, not a demolition job, and it’s a fraction of the cost.

Removal is also a bigger project than people picture. A cast iron tub can run 250–350 pounds. It often can’t come out through the door in one piece, which means breaking it up inside your bathroom, and the surround tile usually doesn’t survive. Now you’re replacing tile and possibly wall board too.

Replace it if it’s cracked, if the drain and overflow are shot in a way that can’t be reached, if you’re gutting the room anyway, or if you’re doing a tub-to-shower conversion for accessibility. Otherwise, reglaze it and spend the difference on the valve behind it.

South Florida has a lot of stacked bathrooms, and that changes the math on everything above.

In a single-family house, a slow shower pan leak is your problem and your money. In a condo, it goes into the unit below — their ceiling, their drywall, their belongings — and now you’re in a conversation with your association, your insurer, and your neighbor about who pays. Bathrooms are also where riser stacks live, so a valve replacement usually means shutting down water for the whole line: notice to the association, a scheduled window, sometimes building staff on site.

Most associations require an approved, insured contractor with a certificate of insurance on file before anyone opens a wet wall, and many restrict work to weekday hours. We do this constantly and we’ll work with your management company. Just tell us it’s a condo when you call.

And if you’re on an upper floor and you notice any of the pan-leak signs: don’t wait. The cost of finding out early is a fraction of the cost of finding out from downstairs.

This one’s specific to who lives here. Broward and Palm Beach County have a lot of homeowners who plan to stay in their houses, and bathrooms are where that plan succeeds or fails.

If a wall is already open for a valve or a repipe, adding solid blocking for future grab bars costs almost nothing — it’s a piece of lumber. Adding it later means opening finished tile. Same logic for a curbless or low-threshold shower: it depends on the drain and the slope, which is a plumbing decision made during the rough, not a fixture you pick at the end. Comfort-height toilets and a handheld on a slide bar are easy any time. Those two aren’t.

You don’t have to install grab bars today. Put the blocking in while it’s free. The people who wish they had are the ones calling us after a fall, and by then it’s a rush job on a finished bathroom.

Also worth knowing: current code requires shower and tub valves to be pressure-balancing or thermostatic, limiting how hot the water can get. A lot of older South Florida homes still have valves that predate that. When we replace one, the new valve is compliant — and it’s the difference between a startling temperature swing and a burn.

Worth sorting out before you buy anything.

Probably the fixture: a drip at the spout or handle, a stiff or loose handle, a shower head with weak spray in one spot, a toilet that runs or phantom-flushes, a pop-up drain that won’t seal. Cartridges, gaskets, flappers, fill valves — wear parts, designed to be replaced, usually a repair rather than a replacement.

Probably the plumbing: one bathroom drain slow no matter what you do, several fixtures slow at once, gurgling when something else drains, sewer gas smell, a stain on the ceiling below, a soft spot outside the shower, or dark grout at the base of the pan. Those point at the drain line, the vent, the pan liner, or the sewer — and no fixture you buy will touch any of them.

Neither: low pressure at every fixture in the house, not just the bathroom. That’s supply-side — a failing regulator, a partly closed main, or corroded galvanized — and it needs a whole-home look.

Call us tonight, not tomorrow: water coming through a ceiling, an active leak you can’t shut off, or sewage backing up. That’s emergency territory and it gets worse by the hour.

1. You call. A person answers, 24/7. We aim for same-day on standard bathroom service calls across Broward and Palm Beach County.

2. We diagnose. A $79 dispatch fee brings a licensed plumber and a stocked truck to your door — waived when you approve the work.

3. You approve. Flat price in writing before anything starts. Options, not one take-it-or-leave-it number. Nothing happens without your yes, and the number doesn’t move after.

4. We fix it. Permitted where required, tested under pressure, cleaned up after, warrantied. Financing available on larger bathroom projects.

Bringing your own fixture? Fine, and a lot of people do. We’ll install what you bought and warranty our labor. We can’t warranty a unit we didn’t supply — and if it won’t fit your rough-in, your valve body, or your drain location, you’ll hear that before we start rather than after.

If we find water damage, we don’t hand you off. We’re IICRC certified for restoration and licensed as a general contractor, so the drying, remediation, and rebuild stay with the same company that found the leak.

Licensed: CFC1427956 (plumbing) · CAC1822846 (AC) · CGC1519396 (general). Woman-owned and operated since 2009.