Kitchen Plumbing Services

Erica’s Plumbing handles every part of your kitchen plumbing — faucets, sinks, garbage disposals, pot fillers, instant hot water dispensers, under-sink filtration, and the supply and drain lines behind all of it. We’re a licensed, woman-owned plumbing contractor (Florida #CFC1427956) working across Broward and Palm Beach County since 2009, available 24/7. Flat-rate pricing, quoted before we start. Call 561-260-5763.

Here’s the thing most people don’t find out until the plumber is already standing in the kitchen: the fixture you bought and the plumbing behind your cabinet don’t always agree. An undermount sink needs a countertop that can carry it. A touchless faucet needs power under the sink. A pot filler needs a line run through a wall that may or may not have one. And a garbage disposal in a house with fifty-year-old cast iron drains can make your problem worse, not better.

We’d rather have that conversation before you buy than after. Below is what we install, what actually fails and why, and the handful of decisions that separate a ten-year kitchen fixture from a two-year one.

Bring your own fixture or let us source it. Either way it gets installed by a licensed plumber, permitted where required, and warrantied.

Pull-down, pull-out, single-handle, bridge, wall-mount, and touchless. Faucet repair when it’s a cartridge or an aerator, replacement when the body’s shot. We check your deck hole count before we start — a three-hole deck and a single-hole faucet need a deck plate, and that’s the kind of thing you want to know before the old one’s already off.

Undermount, drop-in, farmhouse apron-front, and workstation sinks in stainless, fireclay, composite granite, or enameled cast iron. We handle the drain assembly, basket strainer, P-trap, and tailpiece — and we tell you honestly whether your countertop and cabinet can carry the sink you picked before anything gets cut.

Repair and replacement — humming but not turning, leaking at the flange, jammed, or dead. We also install new units where there wasn’t one, which means a dedicated electrical connection and the right drain configuration. Read the section below before you add one to an older home.

A pot filler over the range means running a supply line through a wall that probably doesn’t have one, plus a shutoff you can actually reach. Bar and prep sinks need supply, drain, and a vent. Both are very doable, both are real plumbing work, and both are cheaper to rough in during a remodel than to retrofit after the backsplash is up.

Under-sink carbon and reverse osmosis systems, dedicated drinking water faucets, and instant hot water dispensers. Both eat a deck hole and RO needs a drain saddle and space for a tank. We’ll test your water first — South Florida municipal water varies a lot by city, and the right system depends on what’s actually in yours.

Angle stops that won’t turn, braided supply lines past their life, dishwasher connections and air gaps, refrigerator ice maker lines, P-traps, and the shutoffs you’ll be glad you have the next time something bursts. Unglamorous, and it’s where most kitchen floods actually start.

None of this is in the box, and most of it doesn’t come up until a plumber is already under your sink. It’s cheaper to know now.

This is the one we most often have to say out loud. If your house was built before the mid-1970s — which describes a large share of Broward and Palm Beach County housing — your kitchen drain probably runs to cast iron under the slab. That pipe’s interior is already rough and narrowed from fifty years of corrosion and scale.

A garbage disposal doesn’t make food disappear. It makes it smaller and sends it down that pipe, where it finds every rough edge to catch on and combines with grease into something a cable won’t touch. In a newer home with PVC, a disposal is a convenience. In a 1962 house with failing cast iron, it accelerates the clog you’re already fighting.

We’ll still install one if you want it. But if you’re calling about a disposal and you’ve got recurring backups, the disposal isn’t the problem and a new one won’t fix it. Get a camera down the line first.

An undermount sink hangs from the underside of the countertop, so it needs a solid surface — granite, quartz, or similar — with a finished edge. It does not work with laminate. If you’ve got laminate and you want undermount, you’re buying a countertop too, and that’s a bigger conversation than a sink swap.

Farmhouse apron-front sinks are heavier still and usually need the cabinet modified to carry the load and expose the apron. Enameled cast iron and fireclay are heavy enough that the base cabinet matters.

None of this is a reason not to get the sink you want. It’s a reason to find out what it needs before it’s sitting in your garage in a box.

Touchless faucets run on batteries or an AC adapter. If it’s the adapter, there needs to be an outlet under the sink — and in a lot of older kitchens there isn’t one, or the only one is already feeding the disposal. Battery models solve that but you’re changing batteries in a cabinet under a sink, which people enjoy less than they expect to.

A pot filler needs a cold supply line run through the wall behind your range, plus an accessible shutoff. If your kitchen is mid-remodel and the wall is open, this is straightforward. If the tile is already up, it’s a different job at a different price.

Both are worth doing. Both are worth planning.

South Florida has a lot of condo kitchens, and condo plumbing runs by different rules than a single-family house. In most buildings you can’t isolate your unit — shutting off water for a faucet swap means shutting down a riser, which means notice to the association, a scheduled window, and sometimes a maintenance staff member on site.

Many associations also require an approved, insured contractor and a certificate of insurance on file before anyone touches a wet wall. Some restrict work to weekday hours.

We do this constantly and we’re happy to work with your management company. Just tell us it’s a condo when you call, so we schedule it correctly the first time instead of showing up to a building that won’t let us shut the water off.

The fixture usually isn’t what fails. The five-dollar part behind it is. Braided stainless supply lines have a plastic or rubber liner inside the braid, and that liner is what actually holds the water — the braid just contains it. Liners age, and South Florida’s chloraminated municipal water is hard on rubber, which is the same chemistry that shows up in faucet cartridge failures and in the brittle polybutylene we pull out of 1978–1995 homes.

Angle stops are the other one. A shutoff valve that hasn’t been turned in fifteen years frequently won’t turn when you need it, or won’t seal again once it does. That’s the moment a small job becomes a call to us at midnight.

When we install a kitchen fixture we replace the supply lines and evaluate the stops. It’s a small part of the invoice and it’s most of what determines whether you ever have to think about that cabinet again. If you’re doing this yourself: buy good supply lines, and know where your main shutoff is before you start.

Useful to sort out before you spend money on a fixture that isn’t the problem.

It’s probably the fixture if: the drip is at the spout or the handle base, the sprayer won’t retract, the handle is stiff or loose, the disposal hums but doesn’t turn, or the finish is failing. These are cartridge, gasket, O-ring, hose, or flywheel problems — usually a repair, not a replacement.

It’s probably the plumbing if: the drain is slow no matter what you do, the same clog returns every few weeks, water backs up into the sink when the dishwasher drains, other drains gurgle when the kitchen runs, or you smell sewer gas. Those point at the drain line, the vent, or the sewer — and a new faucet won’t touch any of it.

It’s neither if: pressure is low at every fixture in the house, not just the kitchen. That’s a supply-side problem — a failing pressure regulator, a partially closed main, or corroded galvanized pipe — and it needs a whole-home look.

1. You call. A person answers, 24/7. We aim for same-day on standard kitchen service calls across Broward and Palm Beach County.

2. We diagnose. A $79 dispatch fee brings a licensed plumber and a stocked truck to your door — waived when you approve the work.

3. You approve. Flat price in writing before anything starts. Options, not a single take-it-or-leave-it number. Nothing happens without your yes, and the number doesn’t move after.

4. We install. Supply lines replaced, stops evaluated, everything tested under pressure before we leave. Cleaned up after. Warrantied. Financing available on larger kitchen projects.

Bringing your own fixture? That’s fine and a lot of people do. We’ll install what you bought and warranty our labor. Just know we can’t warranty the unit itself, and if it turns out the fixture doesn’t fit your deck, your counter, or your cabinet, we’ll tell you before we start rather than force it.

Licensed: CFC1427956 (plumbing) · CAC1822846 (AC) · CGC1519396 (general). Woman-owned and operated since 2009.